Intro to Kuala Lumpur
KL is a multicultural city with beautiful nature and architecture.
Cover photo: Posing with Lord Murugan at the Batu Caves, just outside Kuala Lumpur, Selangor, Malaysia (2024). Photo by Danny With Love.
Intro
Kuala Lumpur (KL) was the next stop on my winter vacation. It’s the capital of Malaysia or “the Land of the Malays,” considered one of Asia’s most diverse nations. The Muslim-majority country combines Arabic, Chinese, Indian, and British influences. It’s become an increasingly-popular tourist destination due to its multiculturalism, tropical climate, and affordability!
I knew little about Malaysia prior to my trip. I had imagined KL as a low-budget version of Singapore, but actually the two cities are quite different. While both are humid and rainy, KL is less Westernized, more conservative, and less clean. Despite my initial culture shock, I came to appreciate the city’s raw and unpretentious charm in contrast to SG’s overengineered artifice.
Nevertheless, I must admit KL is my least favorite city I have visited to date. Many areas seemed dirty and dilapidated, several animals at KL Bird Park appeared sick or malnourished, the airport was dark and service was slow. Additionally, the event I was most excited for — New Year’s Eve Countdown Party at Exchange TRX — was virtually-closed to tourists, and fireworks at KLCC Park were cancelled just three days prior, which made for a disappointing start to 2024 and left a sour impression.
I still made the most of my trip — the Petronas Twin Towers, Batu Caves, and Islamic Arts Museum stand out as highlights — but one visit to KL was enough for me. Please read on for more information and travel tips.
Please click on an image above for details.
History
Malaysia is comprised of two separate regions, Malaysian Borneo to the east and Peninsular Malaysia to the west, home to KL. The country has long exported rubber, tin, palm oil, petroleum and gas.
The nation dates back to the Malacca Sultanate of the 15th century. It was colonized by the Portuguese, and subsequently ruled by the Dutch, British, Japanese, and British again. Malaysia declared independence from the U.K. in 1957. Today, it is comprised of 13 states ruled by a parliamentary democracy and constitutional monarchy, a position rotated among sultans.
Located between the Klang and Gombak rivers, Kuala Lumpur — literally “Muddy Confluence” — was settled as a tin mining town in 1857. It’s quickly grown to become a major city. Upon completion in 1998, the Petronas Twin Towers were the world’s tallest buildings!
Now, the new Merdeka (“Independence”) 118 tower is the world’s second-tallest building, after the Burj Khalifa in Dubai, UAE. The site opened to the public January 11th and the complex is expected to be fully complete by 2027.
Daily Life
Malaysia has a population of 34 million, with just 8 million people residing in Greater Kuala Lumpur, the nation’s cultural and economic center. The official language is Malay, which is rendered in the Latin alphabet due to colonization. Malaysia ranks high in English fluency as it’s taught in school and often used in business. Both Hollywood actors Michelle Yeoh and Henry Golding are Malaysian!
Along with neighboring Indonesia, Malaysia is one of the only Muslim-majority nations in Southeast Asia. 61% of the population identifies as Muslim, 20% as Buddhist, 9% Christian, and 6% Hindu. Year-round, the temperature is about 27 degrees Celsius (80 Fahrenheit). Despite the heat, Malaysians dress conservatively, often in pants or robes.
The national currency is the Malaysian ringgit, also known as RM or MYR. It’s necessary to carry cash for small businesses, street food, and pay toilets. Tipping is not customary and the country uses plug type G.
Batu Caves
Kuala Lumpur’s top attraction lies just north of the city, in Selangor. Upon a range of limestone cliffs, Malaysia’s devout Indian population established a Hindu temple complex in the late 19th century.
A visit here is a truly unique and memorable experience: worshippers attend religious ceremonies while birds and monkeys roam the area, and water drips down the cave ceiling.
Visitors are greeted by the towering figure of Lord Murugan, the god of war and victory, constructed of reinforced concrete and painted in gold. Standing at 43 meters (140 feet), it’s one of the largest statues in the world!
Entrance to the site is free. To go inside the cliff temples, visitors must brave the rainbow stairs, totaling 272 steps. Currently, there are no alternatives for accessibility, but there are future plans to build an escalator. Pay toilets are located on ground level.
Islam
Malaysia is a destination rich with Islamic heritage, including beautiful art and architecture. KL’s Islamic Arts Museum is one of the largest such institutions in the world, featuring an impressive international collection of 10,000 artefacts which includes textiles, calligraphy, and jewelry.
There are many masjid, or mosques, to visit, including the Masjid Negara (“National Mosque”), Masjid Wilayah Persekutuan (“Federal Territory Mosque”) modelled after Turkey’s Blue Mosque, and the Masjid Putra made from pink granite, located just outside KL, in Putrajaya City.
Visitors of any faith are welcome. Though some masjid may offer robes to borrow, prepare to dress modestly, including covered knees and closed-toe shoes. Women must cover their heads.
Biodiversity
Malaysia is also hailed as one of the world’s “megadiverse” countries, home to some 185,000 species of animals and 15,000 plants. The national animal is the endangered Malayan tiger and the national flower is hibiscus.
The country has pledged to preserve a majority of land as natural forest, with the current number at about 55%. Visitors can see a sampling of animals at the National Zoo of Malaysia, Aquaria KLCC, as well as the Bird and Butterfly Parks at Perdana Botanical Gardens (also known as Lake Gardens), one of the country’s oldest forest reserves.
Cuisine
One of Malaysia’s greatest draws is its diverse cuisine, including delicious local and international foods, notably Chinese, Indian, and Turkish. I recommend a meal at Malaysian chain Oriental Kopi! The most famous — and crowded — culinary destination is the street market at Jalan Alor.
The national dish is nasi lemak, coconut-flavored rice served with peanuts, anchovies, cucumber, egg, and spicy paste. It’s usually eaten for breakfast.
Shopping
Malaysia does not currently have a GST (Goods and Services Tax) or VAT (Value-Added Tax), making it an especially popular shopping destination for luxury goods. I suggest Central Market and the adjoining Kasturi Walk for a wide variety of souvenirs and treats.
Events & Holidays
Malaysians observe a variety of religious holidays and festivals, including Lunar New Year, Ramadan, Diwali, and Christmas. Commemorating national independence, Merdeka Festival is celebrated throughout the entire month of August.
Unfortunately, as the city’s main fireworks at KLCC Park have been cancelled three years in a row, I advise against KL as a New Year’s destination.
Transportation & Accommodation
Kuala Lumpur is primarily served by KL International Airport, also known as KLIA or KUL. It takes about half an hour by train or car to reach the city. With ride-hailing app Grab, it cost me 72 RM (approx. 15 USD) between my hotel in Chow Kit and KLIA.
The best area to stay is central Bukit Bintang (“Starhill”). Overall, the public transportation system in KL is quite poor and I found much of the city is not pedestrian-friendly, leaving me to rely on Grab. On average, rides cost me 20 RM (about 4 USD). Congestion is quite terrible, especially on weekends. Including waiting times, budget 30 minutes between destinations — no matter how close. Please note, traffic moves on the left.
Safety & Health
Malaysia, including KL, is considered generally safe. I had no problems, but tourists should be mindful of pick-pocketing and bag theft. To avoid stomachache, drink bottled or boiled water. The city’s air quality seemed low to me, but it ranks as “moderate,” which is lower than Singapore but much better than Bangkok!
LGBT+
Put simply, same-sex relations are illegal. Malaysia is considered among the most homophobic nations in the world due to a combination of Sharia (Islamic law) and British colonial anti-sodomy codes. Tourists should exercise discretion in public. Gay bars and clubs have been raided by police. Personally, I found the local queer community welcoming and I had a fun evening at Goong Signature.
Top Attractions
Petronas Twin Towers & KLCC Park
Batu Caves (cliffside Hindu temples)
Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia
Perdana Botanical Gardens / Lake Gardens (city park)
Masjid Negara (“National Mosque”)
Heli Lounge Bar at Menara KH (rooftop bar with 360 degree views)
KL Tower (observation deck)
Central Market & Kasturi Walk (local shopping and street food)
Dataran Merdeka (“Independence Square”) & Sultan Abdul Samad Building (landmark government office, closed to the public)
Jalan Alor (street food market)
Exchange TRX (shopping mall)
Merdeka 118 (world’s second-tallest building, fully open 2027)
Additional Ideas
Popular day-trips from Kuala Lumpur include scenic Ipoh and the historic port city of Malacca. I was interested to visit Taman Negara (“National Park”) — one of the world’s oldest rainforests — but it is a complicated journey from KL and I was not willing to venture out by myself.
The state of Penang, and specifically George Town, are also popular destinations. Countless locals and tourists recommended the islands of Langkawi. If I were to visit Malaysia again, I would certainly go here.
