Himeji-jo, Japan’s Largest Castle
The 17th century structure is a world-renowned architectural masterpiece.
Cover photo: Elegant Himeji-jo shines upon the city, Hyogo Prefecture, Japan (2023). Photo by Danny With Love.
Intro
Immediately upon arrival to Himeji Station — just a half-hour trip from Osaka — visitors are treated to the sight of Japan’s most magnificent castle, Himeji-jo (姫路城).
Comprising over 80 buildings in an area of some 230 hectares, Himeji-jo (姫路城) is not only the largest and best-preserved castle in Japan, but one of the largest castles in the world! Covered in pristine, fire-resistant white plaster, the elegant structure is also known as Shirasagi-jo (白鷺城) or the White Heron Castle.
Himeji-jo sits atop Hime Mountain (姫山) — reaching a maximum height of 91.9 meters (302 feet) above sea level — in Himeji (姫路), the second largest city in Hyogo Prefecture (after Kobe), separating Kyoto and Osaka from western Japan.
The castle is one of Japan’s first World Heritage sites recognized by UNESCO, officially inscribed thirty years ago in 1993. According to the organization, Himeji-jo is an architectural “masterpiece … combining function with aesthetic appeal”. Recently, Danish toy company Lego announced the release of a model set, to “[c]elebrate the longevity and majestic beauty of one of Japan’s most revered buildings”.
As one of just twelve original castles in the nation, Himeji-jo is the finest example of Japanese feudal architecture, with classic features such as a moat, high retaining walls, narrow entryways, steep stairs, and shachi (鯱) [mythical sea monster] roof ornaments. The complex includes nearly 1,000 firing holes for matchlock guns and arrows, and the top floor of the main keep includes a small Shinto shrine.
History
Himeji-jo dates back to 1333, first constructed as a temporary fort, which was steadily expanded over the next three hundred years, finally completed in 1609. Historians estimate over 25,000,000 man-days were spent on construction.
Himeji City served as the capital of the ancient Harima province, ruled by multiple families, including the Ikeda Clan, whose swallowtail butterfly crest can be seen on castle roof tiles. A total of 48 lords ruled over Himeji-jo prior to its nationalization in 1869. Most notably, Himeji-jo was occupied by daimyo (大名) [feudal lord] Hideyoshi Toyotomi (豊臣 秀吉) from 1545 to 1583, until he moved to nearby Osaka Castle.
The castle survives today because it was never attacked. While militarized Himeji City was largely destroyed in World War II, the castle was left unscathed as the structure was covered in camouflage to hide from American air raids. Himeji-jo has since undergone extensive restoration, with a major five-year renovation finished in 2015.
Pop Culture
Himeji-jo has left an indelible mark in popular culture. The castle was featured in multiple historical epics by legendary filmmaker Akira Kurosawa (黒澤 明), including Kagemusha (影武者) [Shadow Warrior], Ran (乱) [Chaos], and Seven Samurai (七人の侍).
Himeji-jo also appears in the television miniseries Shogun, in which a shipwrecked English navigator finds himself mired in local politics. To date, this is the only American television production filmed entirely on location in Japan.
Most famously, Himeji-jo was the setting for a ninja (忍者) training school in the James Bond film You Only Live Twice (starring Sean Connery). Based on the eponymous 1964 novel by British author Ian Fleming, the film popularized the ninja warrior in Western media.
Haunting
The castle grounds also include a haunted well, said to be the origin of the popular kaidan (怪談) [Edo Period ghost story], Banshu Sarayashiki (播州皿屋鋪) [The Dish Mansion at Banshu (Harima Province)]. Over forty variations of the yurei (幽霊) [ghost of a wronged woman] tale are told across Japan, but the legend recalled at Himeji-jo goes as follows.
A young girl named Okiku (お菊) worked on the grounds of Himeji Castle as a maidservant to Tessan Aoyama (青山 鉄山), chief retainer to the reigning daimyo Norimoto Kotera (小寺 則職). To ensure his succession, Aoyama devised a scheme to assassinate Kotera.
When Okiku learned of this, she warned her secret lover, a fellow retainer loyal to the lord. With his plot thwarted, Aoyama falsely accused Okiku of losing a plate from his family’s treasured ten dish set, an offense deemed punishable by death.
Ultimately, Aoyama beat innocent Okiku and threw her down a castle well. At night, the ghost of the murdered girl could be heard counting, “ichimai (one piece), nimai (two), sanmai, (three), yonmai (four), gomai (five), rokumai (six), nanamai (seven), hachimai (eight), kyuumai (nine) …” before wailing out a pitiful shriek, over and over again.
Today, Okiku is enshrined at the nearby Junisho Jinja (十二所神社) but she has continued to haunt wells as infestations of insects called Okiku mushi (オキクムシ), cocoons of a swallowtail butterfly, now considered one of the city’s official symbols.
With themes of social hierarchy and gendered violence, Banshu Sarayashiki has endured for centuries in adaptations including ukiyo-e, bunraku and kabuki plays, novels, and film. Most notably, the tale also inspired 1998’s Ringu (リング) [The Ring]. Directed by Hideo Nakata (中田 秀夫), the blockbuster remains Japan’s most successful horror film, establishing J-horror as a genre while inspiring an international franchise.
Today
Walking the entire grounds takes about two hours. Though unfurnished, the castle is magnificent, considered an unparalleled example of wooden construction. With interior columns made from centuries-old cypress, the main keep alone is estimated to weigh 57,000 tons. The West Bailey Long Gallery is also an interesting visit, believed to have served as the residence for noblewomen.
Visitors shouldn’t miss nearby Koko-en (好古園) [Koko Garden], built in 1992 to commemorate the city’s 100th year as a municipality. As designed by Makoto Nakamura (中村 誠), professor of landscape architecture at Kyoto University, the site includes not one, but nine unique gardens, making it an excellent introduction to Japanese landscaping. The Garden of the Lord’s Residence features a beautiful pond with over 250 koi (鯉) [Japanese carp] alone.
Himeji-jo hosts several events throughout the year, including the Himeji Castle Festival, alternatively held in May and/or November. With over hundreds of cherry trees, the castle is an especially popular spot during sakura (桜) [cherry blossom] season, in early April. A short boat ride around the inner moat is a fun way to enjoy the surroundings.
In my opinion, the castle is a must-see. Visiting Himeji-jo remains my favorite memory from my very-first trip to Japan in 2016. It’s one of few sites in Japan where I’ve truly felt transported in time. Considering the castle’s scale and authenticity, exploring the grounds is a unique experience.
Access
Entrance to Himeji Castle only: 1000 yen (approx. 7.00 USD)
Entrance to Koko-en only: 310 yen (approx. 2.00 USD)
Himeji Castle and Koko-en combined ticket: 1050 yen (approx. 7.00 USD)
Inner Moat Boat Tour: 1500 yen (approx. 10.00 USD)
